Search |
BMD Pet-GROOMING 101
CCBernese
THE BERNESE MOUNTAIN DOG Note: “PET” grooming may be slightly different then “SHOW” grooming. What you see in the show ring, although not desirable, may include whiteners such as chalk and sometimes, over-trimming beyond just tidying up of the furnishings...
* “The Bernese Mountain Dog is shown in natural coat and undue trimming is to be discouraged.” ~BMDCA Breed standard under “Coat”
*Any recommended trimming is for the health & care of your dog as a pet – GOAL: for you to have a dog you can live with and enjoy rather than regret or resent. • Know the breed standard and the look you want before you take out the scissors! Bernese should appear natural, not clipped.
You will want to find a comfortable place to groom your dog with all your tools within arms reach. An elevated surface is easier on the back! You may choose to use a grooming table; a picnic table or other table with a bath mat laid down for secure footing for your dog, or even on the floor. – tether your dog to a door or table, if they have a tendency to try to get away! All grooming should be a positive experience for both dog and handler. Bernese require little 'work' other than brushing with a pin brush bathing and drying- ok, that's a lot of work for a big dog- but they don't require the tedious trimming like that of other breeds!
PRE-BATH: UNDERCOAT Removal and/or DEMATTING: Begin with the removal of dead hair and undercoat before you bathe the dog. This is done either with an undercoat rake or with a pin brush. The hair should never be ‘yanked’ out. This is not to be a painful process. If you choose, you can blow the coat out with a high-powered dryer. It is recommended, this is done in a well ventilated area or outside. If the hair is ready to come out, it will, with minimal effort! Never brush the coat dry, as this breaks the coat giving a dull flyaway or wispy appearance. Mist the coat with water or diluted coat conditioner, first. The coat does not need to be saturated. The brush stroke is a quick (gentle) “pat and pull” outward. When working through mats, begin at the end and work your way towards the skin. Using either an undercoat rake or pin brush. Some mats may need to be pulled apart or broken up with a thinning shear. Most tangles can be worked out with a mat knife and conditioner. If the dog wears a collar regularly, be sure to brush through the neck to remove knots and tangles. Don’t forget the base of the ear. Pay special attention to high mat areas. On the Bernese these tend to be: rear haunches/hip, armpits and ears; and on heavily coated dogs, the neck/collar area.
NAILS, FEET/PAD, EAR CARE: Caring for the ears and nails and pads is not as difficult as many owners believe. FEET & NAILS: Ideally, the nails are ground with a nail grinder or else trimmed and filed with a nail clipper. Nails should not show past the hair; and shouldn't have what I call "Dr. Seuss" feet. Clip or grind just the tip of black nails. You will get a better look at the quik on white nails. If you catch the quik, it is OK! Pack the nail with a little bit of styptic powder and move on to the next. It may look worse than it is, but if you stop and don’t follow through, your dog will give you a difficult time next time. (*HINT* You can distract your dog with a smear of peanut butter on the tub walls- (or on the grooming post) while they are busy licking, you can trim a few nails, and it is easy to clean! “The feet are rounded and compact,” by trimming the hair parallel with the table rounding out the foot. The hair on the top of the foot can be thinned with thinning shears if they appear too bushy. I tend to do all the trimming after the bath, and after the dog is dry or else I go over it for a more finished look then. Clean matted hair and debris between the toes- but be careful not to trim skin! Bernese have webbed feet (snowshoes.) and only minimal trimming is necessary. It is a good idea to get a mat ball out from between the pads if one exists. EARS: Ears get swabbed with cotton balls. You can use ear cleaner from your vet or supply shop. Witch Hazel works wonders for a fraction of the price! Apply the Witch Hazel to the cotton ball, not the ear itself. A cotton swab can be used to clean around the folds in the ear. Do not go deep. The hair just behind the ears can be trimmed with thinning shears, particularly those that are prone to mats in the area. Trimming or shaving the hair on the inside of the leather can help air to circulate, keep the ear dry and is effective in keeping ear infections down. Careful not to cut the leather!
THE BATH: The Bath is a key part of grooming. If all the dirt and debris is not removed, or soap is left in the coat you will not get professional looking results and may actually cause matting and skin irritations. You can put a drop or two of mineral oil in the eyes (“Safe Eye” is mineral oil w/ vitamin E) and put cotton balls in the ears. This will keep shampoo and water from getting in, and becoming an irritation. High quality shampoos are initially more expensive, but usually worth it, and cost less later on. Most are concentrates you will have to dilute, but you will find you will need and use less of it. You may choose to use color enhancer shampoos specifically for white, rust or black coats, and/or “spot wash” your multi-colored dog. There are shampoos specifically for dry skin or coat which contain essential oils such as silk or aloe; others have oatmeal… (Some are for wire coats, while others are specifically for long haired silky coats…) Wet the dog with warm water. Be aware of the water temperature. Watch your dogs comfort level. Work small amounts of shampoo into the dog. This should be a soothing massage for your dog. Talk to him and tell him how great he is! Watch your dog’s posture, just before he shakes, say “shake!” follow it with praise when he does. Soon you will have a dog that shakes on command! Beginning at one end of the dog, work toward the other and really scrub. You can use a rubber curry brush or pin brush to work the shampoo into the coat. During shedding seasons, a lot of hair will come out in the bath. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. running the water in a “line-wash” you will see down to the skin, and be able to remove any ticks that come into view; then work the next layer of coat in the same way. Repeat at least once, removing all shampoo. Rinse until the water runs clear. Conditioner is used when necessary. Don't over-condition your Bernese or you will get a "flat" coat.
POST-BATH: DRYING & FINISHING: DRYING: Teach your dog to shake on command! (When your dog shakes, praise them telling them “good shake!”-don’t scream and bury your head! soon you will have a dog that shakes on command!) Get your dog to shake- this brings the water out from the body and helps them to dry faster. Hand dry, with a towel and then "fluff dry" with a blow dryer. (Ideally a high volume dryer, but not necessary) A “cage dry” is not recommended. Some Bernese tend to be noise sensitive and a metal crate can just enhance the frequency and noise level of the dryer to intolerable levels... BERNESE ARE HEAT SENSITIVE. Heat stroke is NOT uncommon. Do NOT leave your dog unattended in a crate, with a heat-cage dryer. It is important to dry right down to the skin to avoid hot spots. Use a warm-cool dryer setting- not hot, and brush where the air hits. The hair should be "fluffy"- (not smoothed like a golden) back brush if necessary on the hindquarters and rump. to help speed up drying and stimulate the skin. Try to get young dogs used to the sounds of grooming early in life and keep it positive!, but it is not to late to work with older dogs.. It is important to dry thoroughly, to avoid hot spots.
FINISHING: Comb or brush through the tail with a Greyhound Comb or pin brush. Begin at the bone and comb/brush outward. The tail feathering can be slightly trimmed to clean up; starting at the tip it is trimmed loosely to the contour of the bone, going closer at the base of the tail where excrement can collect.
Removing the whiskers is optional, and most owners don't care for the course texture it leaves behind, I recommend leaving the whiskers unless they heavily distract from the expression (i.e. black whiskers on a white muzzle.) or food collects on them causing odor or staining. Others believe dogs need their whiskers. I have never noticed either way.
Trimming some of the hair behind the ears with thinning shears is OK for heavily coated dogs. This allows the air to circulate about the ear, and will keep matting down. The hair on the ears can be trimmed with a thinning shears to round out the head. Bernese should appear natural, not clipped.
For Pets, trimming or shaving the belly or underside of the thighs is ok- In keeping with the customary breed-specific look. Most owners don’t like too much of the furnishings removed from the sides and back of the hind legs; is part of the breed’s “look.” Trimming this area, will help keep down the amount of dirt and debris.
You may opt to apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner to the coat; or even fragrance.
Once the dog is finished- you should be able to comb through the entire coat easily with a greyhound comb.. While slicker brushes are good for stimulating the skin and circulation, they break the coat, so I generally use them with caution! Brushing too hard can cause brush burn.
Be sure to end your grooming session with a positive-reinforcer, such as a treat, favorite toy, or game!
Happy Grooming!
|