Canine-Corner

GROOMING:

PET-GROOMING

Your Dog

for a Professional Look!©

(A VERY general All-Breed recipe for a ‘clean' Pet!)

(You may require all or just some of the following tools... depending on breed/size/coat type and condition)

________________________________________

REBECCA KENT
CANINE-CORNER "from hair to heel"
Pet Grooming and Training
Red Hook, NY 12571
845-758-0DOG [0364]

INGREDIENTS:
Pet
1-3 hours Time (start to finish- depending on breed/size/coat type and condition)
1 Pin Brush
1 Undercoat Rake/Undercoat Comb
1 Bristle Brush
1 Greyhound Comb
1 Spray Bottle filled with Water or diluted leave-in conditioner
Leave-in Coat Conditioner
Lanolin Shampoo (or specialty shampoo per issue)
Hair Mousse

Note: Every breed is different. Even coat types vary within a breed. Not all "ingredients" will be necessary for every dog.

PLEASE See your breed standard for breed-specific grooming and the look you seek BEFORE you begin trimming!

STEP 1: UNDERCOAT/DEMATTING
You will want to find a comfortable place to groom your dog with all your tools within arms reach. I find an elevated surface easier on my back! You may choose to use a grooming table; a picnic table or other table with a bath mat laid down for secure footing for your dog, or even on the floor. All grooming should be a positive experience for both dog and handler. Begin with the removal of dead hair and undercoat before you bathe the dog. This is done either with an undercoat rake or with a pin brush. The hair should never be ‘yanked' out. This is not to be a painful process. If you choose, you can blow the coat out with a dryer. It is recommended that this is done in a ventilated area or outside. If the hair is ready to come out, it will find its way into the brush with minimal effort. Never brush the coat dry, as this breaks the coat giving a dull fly-away or wispy appearance. Mist the coat with water or diluted coat conditioner, first. The coat does not need to be saturated. When working through mats, begin at the end and work your way towards the skin. Some will need to be pulled apart or trimmed with a thinning shear. Most tangles can be worked out with a mat knife and conditioner. For Pets, shaving the belly or underside of the thighs is ok- In keeping with the customary breed-specific look. Most owners don't like too much of the furnishings removed from the sides and back of the hind legs if it is part of the breed's "look." If the dog wears a collar regularly, be sure to brush through the neck to remove knots and tangles. Don't forget the chin! High mat areas tend to be: legs, armpits and ears.
STEP 2: EAR, NAIL, FEET/PAD CARE
Caring for the ears and nails and pads is not as difficult as many owners are led to believe. Ideally, the nails are ground with a nail grinder or else trimmed and filed. Usually, nails should not show past the hair; and short-haired dogs shouldn't have what I call "Dr. Seuss" feet. Clip or grind just the tip of black nails. You will get a better look at the quik on white nails. If you catch the quik, it is OK! Pack the nail with a little bit of styptic powder and move on to the next. It may look worse than it is, but if you stop and don't follow through, your dog will give you a difficult time next time. (*HINT! You can distract your dog with a smear of peanut butter on the tub walls- while they are busy licking, you can trim a few nails, and it is easy to clean!) The feet are generally rounded, by trimming the hair parallel with the table rounding out the foot. The hair on the top of the foot can be thinned with thinning shears if they appear too bushy. I tend to do all the trimming after the bath, and after the dog is dry or else I go over it for a more finished look then. Note, some breeds have a full foot, and the hair is not trimmed on the top of the foot (i.e. Cockers) or slippers are left in tact as in the Cavalier. Clean hair and debris between the toes- but be careful not to trim skin! Some breeds have webbed feet (snowshoes,) and only minimal trimming is necessary. It is a good idea to get a mat ball out from between the pads if one exists. Ears get swabbed with cotton balls. You can use ear cleaner from your vet or supply shop. Witch Hazel works wonders for a fraction of the price! Apply the Witch Hazel to the cotton ball, not the ear itself. A cotton swab can be used to clean around the folds in the ear. Do not go deep. Some breeds (i.e. Poodles, Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzu's, Cockers,) have hair growth within the ear canal. This can be removed effortlessly by applying an ear powder. The powder makes the hair ‘brittle" and it can easily be removed with fingers or a hemostat. The hair just behind the ears can be trimmed with thinning shears, particularly those that are prone to mats in the area. Some dogs have the hair shaved down to the leather; others are shaped. Careful not to cut the leather.
STEP 3: THE BATH
The Bath is a key part of grooming. If all the dirt and debris is not removed, or soap is left in the coat you will not get professional looking results and may actually cause matting and skin irritations or itching.
You can put a drop or two of mineral oil in the eyes and put cotton balls in the ears. This will keep shampoo and water from getting in, and becoming an irritation. High quality shampoos are initially more expensive, but usually worth it, and cost less later on. Most are concentrates you will have to dilute, but you will find you will need and use less of it. You may choose to use color enhancer shampoos specifically for white, rust or black coats, and/or "spot wash" your multi-colored dog. There are shampoos specifically for dry skin or coat which contain essential oils such as silk or aloe; others have oatmeal... Some are for wire coats, while others are specifically for long haired silky coats... Lanolin shampoos tend to be a good general all-purpose and degreasing shampoo with skin moisturizer and natural coat oil... Wet the dog with warm water. Be aware of the temperature. Watch your dogs comfort level. Work small amounts of shampoo into the dog. This should be a soothing massage for your dog. Talk to him and tell him how GREAT he is! Watch your dog's posture, just before he shakes, say "shake!" follow it with praise when he does. Soon you will have a dog that shakes on command! Beginning at one end of the dog, work toward the other and really scrub. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. This step is usually repeated at least once. Rinse until the water runs clear. Condition if necessary. Don't over-condition or you will get a "flat" coat. Unless you have a Setter or Flat-Coated Retriever, this may not be the look you are seeking!  having access to the plumbing or knowing a good plumber at a reasonable price is helpful here.
STEP 4: DRYING AND FINISHING
I hand dry, with a towel and then "fluff dry" with a blow dryer. Some dogs tend to be noise sensitive so try to get young dogs used to the sounds of grooming early in life, but it is not to late to work with older dogs. It is important to dry right down to the skin to avoid hot spots. Use a warm-cool dryer, not hot. And brush where the air hits. Some breeds, the hair should be "fluffy"- (not smoothed like a golden) back brush if necessary on the hindquarters and rump to enhance "bone." Apply a small dab of mousse on the legs and brush upward with a bristle brush to enhance bone, if this is desired. Comb through the tail with a Greyhound Comb. The tail feathering can be slightly trimmed to clean up; some breeds it is shaved. Know the standard and the look you want before you take out the scissors! Most Groomers will be able to help you with breed specific clips. I leave the whiskers unless they heavily distract from the expression (i.e. black whiskers on a white muzzle.) Removing the whiskers is optional, and most pet-owners don't care for the course texture it leaves behind, Others believe dogs need their whiskers. I have never noticed either way. Trimming some of the hair behind the ears with thinning shears is OK for heavily coated dogs. You may opt to apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner to the coat; or even fragrance. Once the dog is finished- you should be able to comb through the entire coat easily. While slicker brushes are good for stimulating the skin and circulation, they break the coat, so I generally use them with caution! Brushing too hard can cause brush burn, particularly on white dogs. Be sure to end your grooming session with a positive-reinforcer, such as a treat, favorite toy, or game! ^©2006