Canine-Corner

GROOMING:

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Here, at Canine-Corner, my goal is to give your pet a positive experience, with the hope that when you return with your pet the next time it's without hesitation.

As an owner of my own special 4-legged babies, I know my clients want to know exactly what's happening to theirs... Here is what takes place and what to expect during a typical grooming session... No Secrets here!

First, please allow 1-2 hours for a typical grooming experience, (more for the first appointment; standard Poodles and X-oodles; St. Bernard's, Great Pyrenese, & Newfs.) Plan a jaunt into Red Hook, Rhinebeck, or Tivoli and experience the shops and restaurants while your pet is at the spa! Or fit the appointment in around your work schedule...

I prefer clients to drop off their pets and return for them at the designated time. Insurance is touchy about folks in the grooming area. You should also note that I get chatty, so it can take me longer and trying to maneuver around folks who want to help isn't always helpful. While I enjoy the company and conversation, it is often a form of distraction for me... everyone says they will be quiet and out of the way, but even with the best intentions it never really works out that way. It is not uncommon for pets to look for their owners. With their owners in view, this can be stressful for both the owner who wants to console the animal and the animal who is wondering why the owners are fretting. Therefore you feed off each other, reinforcing the behavior you are hoping to eleviate. The dryers can be noisy, and watching an animal dry is really not terribly exciting... If you still must stay with your pet for all or part of the grooming session, please let me know when scheduling your appointment in advance so I can schedule the extra time to answer your questions while I am working. BTW-If you have asthma or allergies, any grooming shop is not necessarily the best place for you to be.

A Grooming includes:

Pre-bath Basics of:

• a pedicure- a light massage of each paw. The hair will be trimmed leaving a clean rounded foot, which ought to track in less mud. (Of course we will leave the slippers on Cavaliers, and to those who specify their wishes keep a "Dr. Seuss" look.)
• The nails will be trimmed, or ground. Some dogs are noise sensitive, while others do not like to tolerate the pressure of the nail clipper... I generally prefer the look and feel of a clean foot with ground nails, but do not wish to unnecessarily stress any animal. Trimming of the Nails is not only aesthetic, but it can be physically harmful to an animal that has nails that are too long. Long nails can get caught on furniture, twigs or carpeting, resulting in a tear. They can scratch people unnecessarily, and if too long, forces the dog to splay their foot which can cause debris and irritation in the pad, or pressure on the pastern. Sometimes lightly restraining a dog is necessary in order to complete this important task. Sometimes a little bit of peanut butter has them forgetting that I am touching their feet! Yes, unfortunately, sometimes animals need to be muzzled. I can't afford to be bit, any more than your pet can afford to have a nail torn from the pad. A muzzle is used as a tool to get a job done, not as a punishment. Sometimes an Elizabethan collar (a cone shape collar) or Gentle Leader© is used to gain the same effect.
• Ears are swabbed and cleaned of debris. Ears which have an excessive amount of wax or odor may be left alone with instructions to visit a vet. On some breeds, hair is removed from the ear canal by using a hemostat and ear powder. The antibiotic ear powder makes the hair brittle and it is easily removed. Most dogs do not mind this process. The reason to remove the hair, again, is not merely aesthetic. Hair which is removed from the ear canal allows air to circulate, and naturally allows the ear to flush itself of dirt and wax. An ear that is matted holds moisture and is prone to irritations, yeast infections and odor.
• A Good Brushing! Nothing like a back scratch and belly rubs! I gently, but firmly go over your dog or cat starting at the head (or tail) and work my way meticulously to the opposite end of the dog/cat, leaving no hair untouched. I remove mats and undercoat. and dirt and debris from the anal and rectum area (YUK!) This is most often done with a pin brush, undercoat rake, and comb; (sometimes a slicker brush, or mat-breaker) and a spray conditioner. Mats and undercoat are never yanked out of the coat. Many mats can be combed out and some need to be saturated in conditioner, and yet others leave little choice but to snip them out. Special attention is paid to the animals demeanor- and how touch sensitive they are. Pets are never pushed to the point of exhibiting aggression. That is why some animals may take longer than one would expect, and why I like to schedule additional time for a first appointment. Attention is paid to skin irritations, ticks/fleas other parasites. If fleas are found, or more than a couple of ticks, I will call you, to see if you would like a flea and tick treatment. I will never give such a treatment without your consent, and there is an additional fee for this service (see fees.)
• The Bath is one of the most important aspects of grooming. This follows the brush out. A good bath washes out dirt and debris, often the cause of stubborn mats, and undercoat that has already fallen out, but hasn't landed on your clothes and furniture yet! I have a special high pressure hose, and a pre-set water temperature that fluctuates minimally, allowing for an effective, efficient bath. I have a special hair trap and access to the plumbing, that eliminates the need for a plumber, something most people do not have readily in their homes!

Yes, I do tie the dogs into the tub for their own safety. I only use high quality shampoos. No "economy" shampoos are used here. I only use products I would use on my own dogs and cats. I seek shampoos that are biodegradable and organic. After all, If I feel the products I use are not safe for me, them how can I use them on your pet?! I give 2 complete baths with full rinses before applying conditioner if it benefits your pet. Not all pets need conditioner every bath. Depending on the breed, coat type, and skin condition determines the shampoos and conditioner I use. While I have many shampoos available, the main shampoos that I use are from Nature's Choice; Nature's Specialties; and Kelco Industries. The animal is rinsed completely so there is no shampoo left in the coat, and the water runs clear. This is often repeated. Again, adjusting to your pet's specific needs and comfort, I blow them dry with a high powered drier or a small hand-held drier further removing debris and undercoat.

• Pet's are then towel dried, and further dried and brushed yet again. Few dogs are crate dried. In order to maintain the "proper" coat texture on some breeds, such as terriers, they may be crate dried. but only to a point of manageability. Dogs are NEVER left in a crate to dry with a heat-dryer, unattended! Some animals will not tolerate a dryer, and at risk to myself (of being bit) or injury to them (by jumping off the table) I may opt to crate dry them if it will be less stressful. Combing while drying, softens the coat. Thus, a course wiry texture of a terrier is altered if combed when wet. Some people prefer the softer texture for their pets, while others prefer the breed standard, more natural texture. Using a high powered dryer, allows me to see down to the skin; and further remove mats, tangles, and note any skin irritations, lumps, bumps, and ticks, that I may have missed before and during the bath...
• Once the coat is dried and all mats and tangles have been removed, a light trim may be the next step. Cleaning up loose hairs, and evening out the furnishings on the legs, and belly; flag of a tail; and ears gives a finished touch and is included in the basic groom. Some breeds require further trimming or breed-specific clips, or shorter hair cuts per your request. A coat enhancer may be applied to help repel dirt, add moisture, or replenish natural oils that may have been removed in the bath.
• Bows are available at no charge, and I put them in based on "my mood!" Sometimes my daughter will "assist" in the shop after school, cleaning up and talking to the dogs and cats and even bathing. She often chooses the bows I apply. Be sure to mention if you would like bow/s (or not!) and specify color. (There is a small fee for some of the more "fancy" bows.)

I like to follow the grooming experience with a little fun and games! Sometimes a ball tossed, a squeaky toy, a biscuit, or just being able to walk around and "explore" gives the positive spin a dog may need!

Before and After

To Make An Appointment:
845-758-0DOG (0364)

Hours are Monday-Friday
by appointment only